We offer complete cosmetic and electronic restoration for the following models of McIntosh power amplifiers/mono blocks: Mc30, Mc40, Mc60, Mc75 and Mc225
All components, transformers, connectors, and hardware are removed; chassis is sanded and rechromed (*); lettering reprinted; transformers are sanded, primed, and painted; bottom covers are powder coated. New transformer labels are applied.
Power supply rebuilt, using a new, (the tallest and most expensive on the market), multi-section twist-lock capacitor (the metal tube(s) that sticks out from MC30 and MC60), as opposed to gluing radial caps on bottom of amps as is often seen.
All capacitors are replaced with brand-new audiophile grade caps (Sprague Atom electrolytics, silver micas for small value caps, and a combination of paper-in-oil, mylar, polypropylene film caps for coupling and bypass.
We do not use “NOS” (new old stock) caps — The equivalent of asking the hardware store for some “vintage” AA batteries. You know, the kind that have sat in a drawer for a decade and that are oozing white goop.….My father tells me beef tasted a lot better pre-1950. I believe him. But do I buy New Old Stock hamburger meat? I think not. “NOS caps” have sat unused for 50 years or more…. That is one bad idea. Unless you like hum, distortion, and electric shock. I recently acquired an unbuilt Eico HF87 kit. Tested all the enclosed NOS Goodall, Black Cat, and ‘lytic caps — ALL were bad.
We have done and continue to do thorough side-by-side comparison of numerous brands of caps in order to stay faithful to the beloved vintage tone and use only recently manufactured parts of the highest quality available, handpicked for their sonic performance. If you believe you have a brand of cap you would like to use, by all means speak up. But we will not install NOS caps. They are just as bad as what is in your amp right now.
All resistors are check and replaced combination of carbon comps, wire wound, and metal film depending on circuit location.
Selenium rectifiers replaced with diodes, new voltage dropper resistors installed for proper biasing voltage.
New power cords are affixed. If needed, speaker connectors, RCA jack, chrome logos (MC30 only) are replaced or installed.
Finally, once work is completed, amps are thoroughly bench-tested to make sure they are back on spec. They are then for several days to make sure no kinks arise and to begin the breaking-in process of the new parts, and shipped back to you in some very serious, damage-proof packaging.
We check your tubes with my three tube testers (including a digital “MaxiMatcher” for current draw matching and will tell you which are good and which are not. But I am not a tube reseller, hence you will need to find yourself a reliable source for tubes. (NOT Ebay!)
Contact us for pricing, current turn-around time or any other further info you may need.
(*) Occasionally, an ebay vendor offers what he calls “new rechromed chassis, just like original.” I have recently been able to inspect a those. Please note that:
1. They are made of thinner, lighter gauge metal than the originals, hence more susceptible to bending. A scale does not lie: They are lighter by 8 ounces (yes, almost half a pound of steel has gone missing…) 1 Lb 6 oz vs 2 Lbs 2 oz.
2. When I reprint mine I use extra tough epoxy ink, like the originals. Lettering on these cheap knockoffs is made with some kind of fragile press-on plastic which peels right off with one nail-flick.
3.Lastly, discrepancy in hole size around can cap mounting plate), making it impossible to use same size rivets. Your Macintosh gear deserves better.